| Abstract [eng] |
Linen fabrics are very popular and are used for many applications such as apparel, home furnishings and industrial. They are characterized by durability, environmental friendliness and good mechanical and physical properties. In this work woven fabrics made from 100 % natural flax fibers with obtained various finishes using chemicals are analysed. They are plain weave fabrics with a surface density of 151.7 g/m2 before finishing and a width of grey fabric of 163 cm. The fabric is woven with Itema R9500 (Italy) loom. 38 tex linear density linen staple yarns were used for wefts and warps. Finishing processes change the mechanical and physical properties of the fabrics. The aim of this work is to determine the influence of different finishes on the mechanical and end-use properties of linen fabrics. The influence of different finishes on the tensile strength and elongation at break of linen fabrics, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance, air permeability, color fastness of dyed and digitally printed linen fabrics to wet and dry abrasion, sweat and washing was determined and compared. The analysis of the results was performed, comparing the influence of different finishes on linen fabrics. Evaluating the results of the study, the identified mechanical and end-use properties showed the effect of various chemical finishing on linen fabrics. It was found that finishes reduced fabric tensile strength and elongation at break. Finishing processes improved the abrasion resistance of linen fabrics although have unequally changed the resistance of linen fabrics to pilling. All tested fabrics showed equally good color fastness to washing and sweating. It was identified that the color of the dyed fabric was less resistant to wet and dry abrasion than the color of digitally printed fabrics. The air permeability of linen fabrics changed significantly after different finishes. It has also been established that finishing processes affect fabric pH values. |
