| Abstract [eng] |
Linen fabric is highly valued because of its good hygienic properties. It is organic fiber and very suitable for the production of summer clothing, but linen fabric is wrinkly. This is because of its stiffness and permanent deformation that is considered as having poor – aesthetic effect on clothing. Yet, higher deformations of the textile can be used for creating spatial products like hats or for spatial clothing areas like chest and shoulder blades without any constructing methods. Research of this project confirmed that a chemical softening finish can affect changes in linen materials mechanical behaviour that appears when linen is bent or pulled. It is proven that linen material increases in biaxial deformation and decreases in stiffness while bent. The level of the change depends on softener concentration. The tailor ability of the linen was improved when the ability of linens deformation was increased and the bending rigidity decreased. Therefore, female hats were made from chemically softened linen material. Their shapes were stabilized applying special stiffener. The product is seamless and it is formed from rectangular 75x85 cm linen using 4 g/l softener treatment solution. Waste of the product corners are used in décor elements of the hat. A new technical device and press–forms were designed that perfectly repeated the shapes of the hats drawn in technical sketches; those were used to form the hats. The thin-walled press–forms were made applying the most advanced technology – formation from nature-friendly micro-concrete that is armed with glass fibre. Press–forms are suitable for garments’ mass production, because they can be moulded in special form. However, this technology is expensive enough and can be suggested for big companies. Presented project illustrates the development of new product (hat) from generation of the idea to the creation of the real clothing production in sustainable engineering context. As well as, it reveals the new possibilities for linen materials application. The project was presented at the conference of young scientists’ “Pramonės inžinerija 2015”. The idea of new product development and finished clothing was very attractive in the international exhibition “Technorama 2015”. |
