| Abstract [eng] |
The deformation behavior of textile materials differs in different directions. It is necessary to evaluate the anisotropy of materials to bring the image of the virtual product relatively close to the physical one, when designing spatial clothing visualizations. Anisotropy research is relevant for draped garments – changing attributes influences the drape of the product – as well as for the tight silhouette garments – changing attributes of the material also changes deformation of the garment and the distance ease. The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the influence of anisotropy of textile materials on the spatial visualization of clothing, by using virtual technologies. To study, five cotton fabrics with elastane with different mechanical and structural parameters, have been measured, and two types of garments – straight silhouette dress and flared skirt, which was examined in two different directions – according to warp, and by turning the patterns 45 degrees. In help with 3Ds Max software, we combined scanned straight silhouette dress and mannequin images. Using the same mannequin‘s most prominent chest position, and the thinnest torso, with the crossing planes, croscuts were made and distance ease, distance ease area, and distance ease volume were defined, also, the influence of structural and mechanical fabric parameters on distance ease was investigated.Using Modaris 3D software, flared skirts were draped and evaluated the following parameters: the length of the skirt, the distance between marked scanned mannequin torso line and skirt waist, number of nodes, drape coefficient, silhouette angle and silhouette index. Influence of structural and mechanical fabric parameters to drape parameters was determined. In order to apply well-known three dimensional design applications such as 3Ds Max, Maya and others for the simulation of clothing, firstly, we need to properly import patterns following by very accurate and precise evaluation of anisotropic attributes of the fabric. Methodology for importing and preparing scanned mannequins and patterns of the garment for spatial 3Ds Max visualization was developed. After physically examining drape of five different materials, we have determined drape coefficient and the number of nodes of circular shape, 25cm diameter samples. The influence of structural and mechanical fabric parameters to these parameters were investigated. Analysed the relationship between physical fabric and the drape parameters of virtual flared skirt. At the end of the paper, conclusion was made that the anisotropy of the materials has a great influence on the spatial visualization of clothing. Due to the structural and mechanical properties of textile materials, the distance ease in straight silhouette garments and drape parameters in draped garments are changing. |
