| Abstract [eng] |
Polymeric membranes are one of the most promising skincare products. Depending on the immobilized active compounds the membranes can brighten, moisturize, and reduce puffiness and wrinkles of the skin. They can also remove dirt and the stratum corneum, reduce skin roughness, normalize sebum secretion, stimulate blood circulation and promote skin regeneration. In this project, polymeric membranes were formed from pectin by electrospinning. Their morphology depends on the concentration of pectin, additional additives, and technological parameters of the equipment. The main technological parameters that influence the formation of the fibrous structure are voltage, distance between the needle and the collector, solution supply flow, and relative humidity. Optimal conditions for pectin electrospinning were selected: voltage - 28 kV, collecting distance - 15 cm, solution flow rate - 3 ml/h, humidity - 32%. Polymeric fibers are formed when the solutions contain 2-5 % pectin, 0.25 % or 0.35 % PEO, and 1.5 % non-ionic surfactant and water up to 100 %. The most suitable morphology membrane is produced from a solution that contains 4 % pectin, 0.35 % PEO, 1.5 % non-ionic surfactant, and up to 100% water. After pectin crosslinking, the fibrous structure of the membrane remains. The crosslinked pectin membrane contains the largest number of fibers with a thickness of 0.1–0.2 µm, they make up about 71 % of all fibers. Five compositions for facial skincare were developed and products were made according to them. Products reduce skin irritation, wrinkle depth, kill bacteria and inhibit sebaceous glands, brighten skin or moisturize. The pH, viscosity of the products depend on the active components and the thickeners used. The crosslinked pectin membrane was found to remain stable in the compositions for up to 24 hours. |