| Abstract [eng] |
Thesis purpose - investigate the load size and position of seams puckering. The main tasks: to investigate the influence of the size of the load on the seam puckering, to analyze the influence of the position of load on the seam puckering, to analyze the influence of mechanical properties of seam puckering parameters, the seam pucker was evaluated after sewing immediately, then after 24h. Seam puckering is the subject of many scientific studies, but evaluation of seam puckering parameters dependence on the load is not. The samples of two fabrics were used: 100 % silk and 100 % viscose. Samples came to different ends of load weight: 50g, 100g, 200g, 300g. For some samples the load was fixed in front, for others in the back, and in yet others, on both ends of the sample. The samples are made at two different speeds and were monitored sewed, with seam puckering immediately and after 24 h. Investigating how loading influenced the number of pucker, pucker height and length, pucker sharpness and coefficient. It was found that the load has a significant impact on the seam puckering. Seam puckering decreases at higher loads and under the load on both ends of the sample. Samples sewn at higher speeds had puckering increased by more than 50 %. In addition the length of the samples was measured immediately after sewing, after 24 hours, and after drying. It was observed that the length of a specimen was decreasing with a decreasing load, and after 24 hours, and after drying the length of the sample is reduced even further. |
