| Abstract [eng] |
Nowadays, when society becomes more cosmopolitan, it is important to stay in your own path and save the authenticity. Ethnographic singularity is interesting not only to researchers but also it is like a gem to future generations, which saving and fostering this will not lose their authenticity and will be attractive to the world. This work analyses the fabrics of 258 folk skirts that are stored in the National M. K. Čiurlionis Museum of Art. Skirts were woven in the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century in different regions of Lithuania. The goal of the thesis is to investigate Lithuanian folk skirts symmetry distributions of weaves and colour repeats and to carry out their comparative analysis. To achieve the goal these tasks were completed: 1) to determine Lithuanian folk skirts patterns and weaves territorial distribution; 2) to divide skirts fabric colour repeats and their symmetry groups; 3) to determine skirts fabric weaves and their symmetry groups; 4) to make colour repeats and weaves symmetry comparative analysis. After folk skirt analysis according to their fabric patterns 8 groups were distinguished: checked, plane, vertically striped, horizontally striped, fancy, printed, motley, overlaid. Ethnographic regions have distribution of the fabrics. Checked, plane and striped patterns prevalent across all Lithuania, but in different amounts. Other patterns are specific to certain regions. Skirt fabrics according to weaves were divided into 7 groups. It was found that in most of Lithuania’s regions plain weaved fabrics are the most common. Using a special technique, offered by H. J. Woods (improved by M. A. Hann), ornaments and their motives classification system, which is based on four symmetrical operations (shifting, rotating, reflection and modified reflection) folk skirts fabric colours repeats and symmetry groups of weaves were established. During the research, five repeats of the skirt colours and six symmetry groups of weaves were found, but in comparison with colour repeats and weaves symmetry groups their distribution were very different. |
