| Abstract [eng] |
Textile industry accumulates huge amounts of waste, with an addition of large use of natural resources. In search of alternative, ecological dying process, a sublimation method was chosen to research. No water is used during its manufacture process, dyes are used economically, no toxic waste is accumulated. It was researched, how yarn linear density, material and pattern affects structure properties and material finish comfortability. In this paper, 15 different structure woven (5) and knitted (10) fabrics were analyzed, which were prepared in collaboration with „Textilis“ company. Materials differ in raw material, course/weft density, wale/warp density, area density and pattern. Researched pure-fiber and mixed-fiber polyester materials and materials, made of polyester yarn combinations and mixes with flax, viscose, cotton, Tencel and elastane. A vast array of patterns was researched: single jersey, single plated, fleece, Milano rib, tuck-stitch, plain weave and satin weave. Surface density varies from 100 to 390 g/m2. Selected materials were dyed using sublimation method, coated with different dye area (0 %, 30 %, 70 %, 100 %). It is known, that finishing processes change fabric physical and mechanical properties. The goal of the research – to find out, how sublimation dying affects textile material physical properties. It is analyzed, how sublimation changes materials comfortability. A research was done on structural changes, air permeability, dynamic water absorption and pilling. Result analysis was conducted, comparing unprocessed and processed materials. Aiming to find changes in physical and relational properties. Research has shown, that fabrics comfortability depends from raw material, pattern, yarn linear density, course/weft density, wale/warp density and yarn structure. It was discovered, that dye quantity, used in sublimation, does not affect materials change of properties. Changes are affected by manufacture process, during which material is affected by high temperature and press using heated roll. |
