| Abstract [eng] |
Knitted fabrics made of polyester and elastan blend are widely used in textile industry, especially for sportswear and leasure wear garments. One of the most important properties of garment’s exploitation is its comfort ability. Comfort properties of textile garments depend tightly on air permeability and deformation properties of the fabrics, which depend not only on the structural parameters of the fabric, but on its assemblies, as well. In this research, eight commercially available knitted fabrics made of different percentage of polyester and elastan were investigated. Air permeability and deformation anisotropy were evaluated for fabrics without assemblies, also for their assemblies sewn with (512) overedge chain stitch seam; (607) covering chain stitch seam; and adhesive bonds. The influence of knitted fabrics structural parameters on air permeability was determined, as well as the influence of different types of sewn and bonded seams. Based on the determined results it was concluded that the thickness difference of the fabric specimens measured at different pressures is related to the fabric porosity which makes significant influence on air permeability. The influence of fabrics’ structural parameters and the influence of different types of assemblies to deformation anisotropy were also determined. The results proved, that any type of investigated assemblies has a negative influence on garments comfort properties. The highest difference was determined for adhesive bonds, while assemblies with (512) overedge chain stitch seam demonstrated the lowest decrease in garments comfort properties. The most important results of Master’s thesis were presented at two international conferences (CYSENI 2018 and “The 59th International Scientific Conference of Materials Science and Applied Chemistry’2018”) and published by international scientific journals with citation index. |
