| Abstract [eng] |
The linen/silk (70% linen and 30 % silk) fabric finishing influence on fabrics end-use properties was investigated in master’s finishing project. The fabric was used for digital printing, both reactive and pigment inks, also dyed in garments department. The relevance of this kind of project is very important because two different natural yarns are combined in one fabric. Both are natural, one is made from protein – silk (animal based), and the other one from cellulose – linen (plant-based). Those yarns have not only different nature but also different chemical properties. To make a correct technological regime for this kind of fabric is quite difficult. Because of this reason, the main task in this project is to make correct technological regime for this kind of blended yarn fabric, preparing it for digital printing, both reactive and pigment inks, dying in garment department with even and solid colour. It is done with technological regimes which take up to 10 to 14 steps, parameters and chemical recipes are chosen. The aim of the project is to make the technological process of linen/silk fabric, identify and compare the end-use properties of the subject fabrics. After the subject fabric is being finished with the technological process, these characteristics were investigated: colour fastness for perspiration, colour fastness for washing, dry and wet rubbing colour fastness, pilling resistance, pH value, shrinkage in weft and warp directions. The difference between pigment and reactive inks pilling resistance is caused by inks type. To use reactive inks for printing the fabric must be immersed into the special chemicals which enrich the fabric with ink binding characteristics. In this case, reactive ink can fix to fabric easily. Ink can fix to the surface and inner layers of the fabric. Different fixation process of ink appears for pigment ink. It has already a binding system into the ink itself which gives the ability to form a layer top of the fabric. That layer which has formed on surface top increases the resistance for pilling. Colour fastness has been graded significantly high grades, except wet rubbing fastness. These grades give a conclusion that parameters used in the technology process for digital printing fixation were chosen correctly. The certificate of Oeko Tex standard 100-second class was given after the certificated laboratory test were made to subject fabric. |
