| Abstract [eng] |
During the project, using different concentrations of growth regulators, optimal conditions for the cultivation of purple basil (Ocimum basilicum var. purpurascens) callus cultures were formulated, promoting the accumulation of bioactive compounds in all morphological parts of the plant - roots, stems and leaves. The results showed that the highest concentration of phytochemical compounds was found in root and stem callus cultures grown in a medium with 0.1 mg/l indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) and 5 mg/l thidiazuron (TDZ), while for leaf callus culture, the optimal biosynthesis medium included 0.1 mg/l IAR, 5 mg/l TDZ and 0.5 mg/l amino acid L-tryptophan. Based on the collected data, three initial and three final prototypes of cosmetic products were developed, which used an aqueous extract of purple basil callus cultures at a concentration of 0.056 g/ml. After evaluating the stability, viscosity and pH of the cosmetic compositions, and comparing these parameters with analogues on the market, it was determined that they meet the quality requirements and are suitable for further research. The developed cosmetic formulas were applied to protect natural white hair from exposure to a wide spectrum of artificial light - visible, infrared and ultraviolet - for 20 hours. This duration corresponds to approximately 90 hours of natural sunlight exposure in the state of Nevada (USA). Experimental data revealed that, compared to the negative control, the product prototypes protected the protein structure of the hair more effectively than the lipid structure. The presence of bioactive compounds, extracted from purple basil callus culture and broad-spectrum UV absorption were associated with improved protein protection. Even surface coverage, a stronger ability of the UV filter to absorb UVB rays, and the natural antioxidant's capacity to access lipid regions in hair were identified as essential formulation features for effective lipid protection. |
