| Abstract [eng] |
The aim of the research project was to determine the influence of the technological conditions on to the structural and mechanical properties of plain single jersey-knitted fabrics intended for outerwear range. Three different type yarns with different fibre compositions have been selected for the experimental investigations: 100% woollen yarns, 50/50 % wool/PAN blended yarns and 100% PAN (acrylic) yarns. The samples of plain single jersey-knitted fabrics, used for investigations, have been knitted in UAB “Garlita” using a 10E gauge flat double needle bed weft knitting machine. The knitting of the samples was organized in several stages. Five parties of knitted fabrics have been knitted using all three different yarn compositions. The fabrics were knitted of unconditioned yarns and of yarns, conditioned in standard atmosphere conditions for 1, 2, 5, and 24 hours. The course and wale density coefficients of knitted fabrics were determined. They were measured in 6 stages – immediately after knitting and after fabrics were conditioned for 1, 2, 5, 10, 24 hours in standard atmosphere conditions. After determining the course and wale densities, the course spacing and the wale spacing values of knitted fabrics were calculated. The influence of the technological properties on to the knitted fabric dimensions was also found in the research. The influence of yarn conditioning and relaxation after the knitting to the knitted fabric dimensions in both horizontal and vertical directions was determined by evaluating the geometrical changes of the stitches. Also, the deformation and strength properties for all three different types of yarns and all knitted fabrics were measured during the tensile test. It was determined that increasing of conditioning duration leads to consistent decrease of the wale spacing and to the consistent increase of course density. Also, it was found that relaxation duration of both the yarn and the fabric have significant influence on to the final dimensions of the fabric. It was also found that relaxation of the yarns in standard atmosphere conditions has no influence to the knitted fabric strength properties. However, it has significant influence on to the elongation values. |
